I’ll start with what turned out to be the most notable strategic decision, not bringing a packraft. It’s easy with the benefit of hindsight to say I should’ve brought one. Water was really high and I could have cut significant time off my total. But knowing what I did then, I probably made the right call. Steady rain brought water levels much higher than what they had been for most of the week prior. A few weeks after the race, I went to float the Hammond and found very shallow waters. If rains subsided, that could have been the conditions present and I would have been in a much more favorable situation compared to other participants. The lesson I gain from this is to pay much more attention to weather closer to the starting date and maybe take the forecast for the upcoming days into slightly more consideration as well. I’m still unsure as to what the ideal ratio (walking/floating) is where bringing a packraft is more beneficial than the added weight is a hindrance.
Sleep: I slept much more than all the participants who finished before me. In total, I was trying to sleep or sleeping for roughly 3.5-4 hours out of the total 53.75. This was likely too much. Granted, walking the entire distance calls for more rest due to more activity. But I believe if I cut down the amount of sleep (or attempted sleep by hours) I could still see similar results. I’d sleep for shorter durations, such as > 45 min, instead of an hour and a half to 2 hours at a time.
Navigation– The route I travelled was perfect. It was the most direct and contained great walking. Hard ground and minimal tussocks were the rule, not the exception. I was caught in brush on Trembley Creek for a couple miles, but outside of a few yards elsewhere, the route was brush free.
I made 2 major errors in navigation which likely cost me 3-5 hours. The first was just after the continental divide. I descended into an unnamed valley and had to climb another pass to get into the Koyuktuvuk, though the view was obscured by thick clouds. I crossed the creek, walked a little ways down valley and guessed at where I was. The pass I ascended had a glacier ant the head and the upper bowl was filled with snow. I trudged up halfway before realizing my mistake and turned back. The next pass over was free of snow. This is a hard situation without a gps. There isn’t much I’d do differently other than be more aware of distances between areas on the map.
The next instance also involved choosing a wrong pass. This time from Trembely creek going into Big Jim. I went too early and had to cross over a few hills and fight through brush to get back to where I was supposed to be. This mistake was just due to poor navigation. Visibility was sufficient. I need to take a better look at the map when judging the surrounding terrain.
I think the argument could be made that these areas cost more than 3-5 hours due to the extra distance through snow and brush, causing more wear on the body. Route mistakes are a major time killer. Sleeping a few minutes extra is OK. Travelling a few extra miles is not.
Weather conditions made for much more difficult conditions. For most of the duration of my trip, it was raining or snowing. Temperatures likely weren’t below freezing, but I don’t imagine they passed 50 degrees either. Skies were overcast and I saw the sun for the first time 8 miles from Wiseman. With the race being held in late June, there was still deep snow in the high passes.
I was pleased with almost everything I brought, there was very little excess. I had a full out weight of somewhere between 12-13 lbs.
Before I go into a brief line by line analysis here are the major items of gear I didn’t bring:
I still would not bring a stove or a tent.
ULA CDT 55 L Pack- A little too big for my purposes but its what I have and provided easy access to contents in the pack and things in pockets outside. The material does absorb lots of moisture which probably didn’t help to provide any additional warmth. I won a HMG pack through the post race raffle that I’ll probably use next time.
Rab Pullover- I wore this almost the entire time. There were no issues of being soaked by rain and it was breathable enough that I wasn’t too damp from sweat underneath. No major complaints.
Base layer T shirt-Worked well. There were basically no bugs. If there were bugs, I’d switch to a long sleeve base layer
Wind Pants- Dried quickly after numerous snow and river crossings
Salomon X3 shoes- These were essentially worn right out of the box. I love these shoes. Comfortable fit for my foot, great grip and dry very quickly. No foot issues outside swelling.
Winter hat- Wore almost the whole time
Sun hat- Remained in bag the whole time
Glove liners- Don’t remember using. I wouldn’t bring these again.
Sherpa fleece pullover- Never used. Would not bring again.
Sat phone- Required. Never used.
SPOT Messenger- I sent messages out every 6 hours or so. There were 3-4 instances where my messages that were reportedly sent did not reach my recipient list. I’m becoming less and less a fan of SPOT. For something similar, the InReach is a much better option.
Enlightened Equipment 20* quilt- Overkill for the conditions but again, it’s what I own. It became wet in the rain but still had plenty of insulation to keep me warm on my extended rests.
Thermarest ¾ CCF pad- Functioned as sleeping bad and pack support.
One trekking pole- I found this very useful once leg pain started to increase. I would not bring 2.
Miscellaneous- Olympus Tough Camera, extra battery, very basic med kit, fire starting materials, and headnet.
The 2 things I wouldn’t bring amounts to liner gloves and the fleece pullover. Not bad. In the future, I’d also consider a different strategy of less sleep which would allow me to remove the sleeping quilt and the lseeping pad. Instead I’d bring a jacket, like the Montbell Pro (I think that’s the name) and curl up under a tree somewhere.
I was pleased to discover that I remained outside of hypothermia/warm enough to function in that setup. If I was packrafting I’d slightly change my approach. I rode on a packraft for a few miles and when I wasn’t padding I was constantly shivering. Rain pants would help. This is another instance where jacket over sleeping bag could be of great help.
Food– For efficiency and speed, I went without a stove. I brought dried mangoes, peanut butter pretzels, homemade granola (oats, peanut butter, brown rice syrup) and one other thing I’m forgetting but I believe peanut/almond/raisin combo. I planned 1.5 lbs/day for 4 days and threw in an extra pound for good measure. It was too much. I finished with a little over 4 lbs of food remaining. With the benefit of knowing my capabilities now, I’d plan for less food per day maybe 1.33 lbs and/or try to more accurately account for days out. If every pound costs a loss of a mile (according to research done by Roman Dial for Arctic 1000) then it is better to end with none than 1 lb of food remaining (provided that you run out of food as close to the end as possible). I think I’d switch up my food choices as well, keeping the chocolate and dried mangoes but removing the other two and adding jerky plus some other type of nut combination.